Working with Agencies: Advice for New Fashion Photographers
This article is written by a member of our expert community. It expresses that member’s views only. We welcome other perspectives. Here’s how to contribute to MM EDU.
Why work with agencies/agency models?
Photo: S de Varax, Model: Perrie @ Viviens
The semblance of professionalism
If you say you are a fashion photographer, you need to be working with fashion models. Models with the right looks, the right stats, the right attitude, and the right professionalism give you the credibility that you’re halfway to doing the right thing. Clients want agency girls, publications insist on it (ever see the clause – models MUST be agency represented- in submission requirements?) and you want to be draping that stylish garment on a 5’10 agency girl rather than Jane Doe off the street. Perception is a big part of the industry. To be taken seriously, you need to be working with the right people.
Note: Non-agency girls and boys can be as marvelous and beautiful and awesome as agency girls and boys, just as agency girls and boys can be not so great. Models are humans. However the fashion industry has rules – play by the rules then you can break them.
Half your work is done for you
Agencies are there to source models with the looks and stats the commercial and fashion world wants. They’ve gone out and done it and have a database ready. It’s much easier to ask an agency for possible models with the attributes you’re looking for and get comp-cards, than to scroll along hundreds of listings online and message all of them, hoping someone replies.
You can focus on what you do best
Agency models know how to do their work so you can do yours. You don’t need to worry if they’ll show up (they will), about replacements (call the booker), and they’re practicing all the time as they learn on the job and on tests. They show up prepared and ready to work because this is their job.
How to work with agencies/agency models
Photo: S de Varax, Model: Amberlie @ Chadwick
Which agencies to contact
There are good agencies and there are bad agencies, and there are smaller boutique agencies which can be good or bad. The first step is to make a list – research online and ask other photographers or creatives or models about which agencies to work with. Reputable agencies have a good standing in the industry, they’re usually well known and represent a good selection of models.
Call? Email? Show up?
So you’re ready to contact agencies and don’t know how. Should you call, or email or just show up with your book? Depends on the agency.
I favor calling – you can ask directly for the booker in charge of new faces therefore having a point of contact. They get to know that you’re a real life breathing person so they’ll remember you when you email. If they’re open to testing they’ll usually ask to see your work, in the form of a website or they may ask that you come in with your book.
If and when you email – re-introduce yourself, reiterate what you’re looking for, for example testing with new faces or paid testing, and attach your website or a pdf file of a selection of your work and your contact details.
If and when you show up – dress smart casual and be presentable. Have your book and cards on you.
3P’s- Be Professional, Polite and Positive
First impressions matter. The way you present yourself goes a long way to securing a good relationship with a booker, making it easier to book models. Double check all grammar and spelling, make sure your contact details are correct.
If you’re nervous about speaking or meeting a booker, write up what you’re going to say and practise saying it. The first time I was nervous and stuttering. The next couple of times I was too abrupt and forward. After the tenth time, I’m getting used to having a normal conversation. If you’re unsure about anything, don’t be afraid of asking questions. It is much better to have all the information on the table.
Smile and make eye contact.
Always remember to stay positive. Bookers might say no, but keep at it – contact them and keep showing your new work. Remember that it is a symbiotic relationship – photographers need models and you as a photographer have the skills bookers need. If at first you don’t succeed, try and try again, and again, and again.
Have your work ready
Study the sort of images the agency has on their boards and make sure you’re shooting similar stuff of equal (or higher) caliber. It’s alright if you’re a student or new, as long as you can show you have potential to shoot good images which highlight the best features of the models – which is what bookers are looking for. Peacock feathers and sparkly glitter eyes are less likely to impress than good solid clean images. Don’t be afraid to ask for critiques, especially from your peers. Be discerning and only put out your best work.
Have a website ready (your own) as opposed to Facebook, flickr, or MM. It’s easy and cheap to set up your own website – sites like WordPress, livebooks, qufoto and many more offer readymade templates to showcase your work, or you can make your own.
Have your portfolio or book ready – 11×14 is usual, but you can choose to be more unique in your presentation. No Plastic Sleeves is a nice site to see how other photographers are handling their marketing materials. An iPad might also be an option for showing your work.
There’s no beating that feeling when you hand your book over and see eyebrows go up and mouths curve into smiles as they flip through your work.
Photo: S de Varax, Model: Courtenay @ Giant
Live up to expectations and exceed them
Be prompt on your promises and always try to be better. Bookers don’t like to chase photographers for photos and they like it even less if you disappear. People talk and you really don’t want to be that person no one wants to work with.
Be a good photographer and be a good professional.
Other matters
Can or should you get a model release? Agencies rarely allow their models to sign releases, especially for tests. Ask the booker if you need a release.
Can you use test photos commercially? Not a great idea. You need to negotiate for commercial use.
What can you use test photos for? Read up on the laws regulating your country such as privacy and photo releases. Common use includes portfolio updates and magazine submissions.
What do you give agencies? You can give a proof sheet of photos for the booker to choose a selection to retouch, or give a selection of already retouched images, as long as they’re usable images. How many images are up to you – 1 to 3 per look would do well.
Above all, have fun!
S de Varax
Shamim de Varax is a young self-taught photographer currently based in Melbourne, Australia. She specializes in editorial fashion and beauty with personal long term projects focusing on emotive portraiture. http://sdevarax.com & http://sdevarax.wordpress.com
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October 30, 2015 at 2:28 pm, Ed Dandy said:
Can anyone give me advice for when agencies seek you out but then say they can’t pay you for test shoots until they’re more experienced with you? This has happened twice to me now with two decent-sized agencies in Toronto. How can one approach this situation?
November 08, 2015 at 1:47 pm, James Douglas said:
Sounds like some one is too cheap to pay for photos
October 28, 2015 at 2:07 pm, ?? said:
Isn’t this a strange article for Model Mayhem to be posting and promoting (just received an email)? People come to model mayhem particularly to find models who aren’t stuck behind an agency. It’s like recommending people use agencies instead of model mayhem……
November 08, 2015 at 1:47 pm, James Douglas said:
Can’t use both?
June 24, 2015 at 4:36 pm, DeCosta said:
I see nothing in this article about getting paid…You are applying for a job ladies and gentlemen. If you are agency standard there is no reason you should be testing for free..Period!
March 15, 2015 at 3:21 pm, Ellen Vladyuk said:
Thanks for article!
But If an agency ask me to sign a model release which gives them unrestricted rights and permissions to copyright and use,re-use, publish my all my photographs or video with my own name or a fictitious name shall i sign it? Is it true that If I signed one 10 years ago it probably still stands. Any advice please?
June 12, 2014 at 8:33 am, Vikki Jones said:
I have a question. I’m a photographer and a clothing line wanted me to take pictures for them. When I asked about getting credit, they told me no. If I wanted credit I would have to pay them, is that correct?
June 27, 2014 at 8:14 am, Wesley Carter said:
if you’re not getting credit then you need to be charging them. otherwise you’re literally getting nothing out of it. not even exposure.
July 20, 2013 at 11:13 pm, Michelle said:
I’m from a smaller city in Canada, and we don’t typically have a “fashion” industry (there’s a few designers here and there), and most of our models aren’t 5’10” and willowy. What would you suggest?
Another question I have is, how long would you recommend shooting TF for as a new fashion photographer?
October 03, 2012 at 12:05 pm, help said:
The director of an agency had me schedule shoots with some of his
models. The most recent shoot, he decided, was unacceptable and not to
be used. Not only by him on the modeling website, but he is trying to
tell ME I cannot use or share any of my own photos of the model. There
has been no contract signed between myself and the agency. Nor a release
with the model. Obviously, testing with agencies is supposed to be
mutually beneficial but I do not believe he has any right to tell me I
cannot use my own photos. I had a hair and makeup artist on the shoot as
well and there’s no way any of us would have done this shoot to not be
able to use the photos. The photos are appropriate, nothing to harm the
model. Do you have any advice or can you direct me to more information
about this? I want to tell him he does not have to use the images, but
that I will be using my own for personal/promotional purposes (website
portfolio, facebook, etc). I believe he is just trying to intimidate and
bully me out of using my own photos but I want to be sure he doesn’t
have rights first.
October 28, 2015 at 4:03 pm, cjs711 said:
Without having a signed release, why do you feel you have a right to use the images for any purpose? They are fortunate there is not a signed release because it sounds like they did not like the way the photos represented their model client. Was it the poses? The styling? Lack of styling? The image quality? The post-processing bad? We don’t know; all we know is they didn’t like them and don’t want them shown – just as you would not like work of yours to be shown that was not good or not your best. In a model’s case the situation is even worse because they will be known by their likeness in the image – a bad photo of yours would only be known to be yours if your name was printed there. Irrelevant how many hours you spent on the shoot. They didn’t like the photos and you had no release. Bad photos of a model floating around could be as damaging to her career as bad photos by you floating around could be to your career. They don’t want it; you wouldn’t either.
October 03, 2012 at 11:47 am, Guest said:
Any advice when working with an agency (no release signed) and the director tells you he doesn’t want you to use your photos of the model after asking you to work with her? He has told me he doesn’t like the photos for his site which is fine, but does he have any right to tell me I cannot use my own photos because the model is with an agency? If so, this would be an absolute waste for me and my hair and makeup team. I don’t think he has the right to keep me from using my own work for my portfolio, facebook, etc. but I can’t find any concrete answers.
October 28, 2015 at 5:16 pm, cjs711 said:
Did you pay to book the model and now he tells you you cannot use the images? If you did pay, I’ve never heard of someone saying even though you paid you cannot use the shots.
September 24, 2012 at 8:58 am, Gilbert Orozco said:
Thank you for the article. It answered so many questions I had.
March 07, 2012 at 12:23 am, Pixmaker53 said:
This is a wonderful article. I have been in the industry a long time, 3 years ago I moved to a new city. This article is just the brush up I need! It’s like I’m a kid again, trying to break into a new city’s market! It matters not how long one has been at it, like Janet Jackson said; “what have you done for me lately?”
December 08, 2011 at 5:10 pm, Rcarterphoto said:
Great advice! I just graduated, and I’m finding that agencies like my work, but won’t let me test with their models. I’ve gotten the comment “too artistic.” I see now that I have to reshape my book to be more commercially appealing. Love this article, I will be sharing!
November 30, 2011 at 12:45 am, clin said:
i have a question regarding the make-up and styling for the tests… for a test shoot for the well known agencies do u need a wardrobe, a stylist, make-up and hair? does the model comes up with the wardrobe? thank you
February 13, 2012 at 11:02 pm, N.Grigalunus said:
You don’t necessarily ‘need’ anyone other than the model. But the competition for relationships between the modeling agencies and their talent, and yourself is highly competitve. I won’t even begin to talk about the amateurs attemptng to make the transition to professional status. So collaborating with a MUA, hairstylist, and a clothing stylist, (if you can manage to convince them to collaborate with you), is almost an unavoidable necessity. If you’re going to compete for ‘go-sees’ or actual modeling work, your images have to be spot-on. Your photos have to reflect a thorough understanding of photography skills, creativity, and knowing what’s happening in the industry at any given moment. If you’re going to do fashion photography. get to know what’s being publsihed in the mainstream mags, who the regular shooters are, whose working and whose not. Like preparing for a job interview, you need to do your homework beforehand.
November 28, 2011 at 8:14 am, Julian Wilde said:
As much I love Agency Girls, I would only recommend using them… if you can’t get “agency quality girls” on your own. 😉
November 27, 2011 at 5:24 am, Marlo said:
Thanks for sharing!
November 24, 2011 at 2:22 pm, Eyeofrayphotography said:
Thank you so much for this. Extremly helpful
November 24, 2011 at 12:16 am, Photos by Jeff said:
THanks, a nice article.
November 22, 2011 at 11:11 pm, Titus Powell said:
Great advice. I’ve found that the top agencies (in the UK, this is) really want natural photos. Amazing beauty shots with on trend makeup seem to have less impact than a simple single-light B&W shot of a girl in a vest with ultra natural makeup that seems to you as a photographer, well, somewhat boring.
Obviously you need to get something out of it too, but the more top agency tests I do, the more I conclude that, to agencies, natural is king.
November 22, 2011 at 3:55 pm, Saint Robert said:
Thanks. Very informative and good info to know.
November 22, 2011 at 1:30 am, Martin kunert said:
What I’d add… agencies in NYC and LA are looking for simple, clean, natural shots. The point is that you’re selling the natural beautiful of the girl. Agencies want their clients to go, “ooooo, if that’s how beautiful she is naturally, imagine how hot she’ll be when we really razzle-dazzle her up!”
November 21, 2011 at 8:27 pm, Neil said:
Good article. The bigger the centre in which you live the more precise the agencies want with their testing photographers.
In Paris they will look at your site, and you’d best go see them. A relationship is the key to moving ahead. The pictures they expect are work tools , not Vogue covers.
It’s a delicate balance. You’ll need to provide all the team players to provide the standards the agency needs. Your fist few shoots are critical. Once past you have built up some credibility, you can have more fun. Remember: your relationship, 1:1 with the agency is what will make it possible to get magazine work. Without it , you’ll be out of luck.
November 21, 2011 at 6:41 pm, Timothy said:
Very helpful post. For someone just starting to approach agencies for testing, what do you think would a good number of photos for a portfolio?
November 21, 2011 at 11:57 pm, terms reader said:
All killer. No filler.
15-20 is an absolute MAX. But only include the best. 5 amazing photos is better than 5 amazing photos and 10 pretty good ones.
November 22, 2011 at 12:47 am, Timothy said:
Thanks!
November 18, 2011 at 2:03 pm, Jahi Sadiq-el said:
Thank you this is very helpful!
October 17, 2011 at 3:34 pm, Apsi Photo said:
Thank you so much for the direction.
October 17, 2011 at 5:20 am, Craig B. Smith***Photographer said:
Thank You & Great Words! :-)…..Just an FYI: I was REMOVED from MM, not long ago because they said I was a Fashion Photographer and worked with the agencies, I was told it was not allowed for MM, photographers to be agency/fashion photographers! WHAT!!!???……I’m Glad you brought this to MM’s EDU
November 22, 2011 at 7:19 am, Michael W said:
Agent profiles are not allowed on MM. You can shoot their models. You just can’t be/act as an agent or manager.
October 15, 2011 at 11:06 pm, Bocailcious said:
Excellent Article. Thanks for sharing. I’m hoping to test this out soon!
Cheers.
Brian Wcislo
October 15, 2011 at 8:21 am, Harold Rose said:
My complaint: I like to see professional photography skills.. Skill is not given the importancwe that is needed.. SKILL LEVELS very important..
October 15, 2011 at 12:55 pm, SdV said:
hi harold.
October 15, 2011 at 4:51 am, Lindsay said:
Great advice. My question is, for photographers that don’t have a regular studio space, is it best to just go forward and test on location? Sometimes I’ll shoot in my apartment, but I don’t know that an agency would be too happy about that.
October 15, 2011 at 12:54 pm, SdV said:
I use my apartment as a studio. as long as you deliver, agencies aren’t going to care how you get results.
October 15, 2011 at 3:30 am, Julian Wilde said:
I have to admit, after shooting FOR agencies for over 10 years… I LUUUUV the freedom of NOT working for agencies. But they’re great for all the reasons you say. 😉
-JULIAN
October 14, 2011 at 10:15 pm, Ddiazsanchez said:
im fashion photographer and beaty,is very difficult send emails try get in touch with people and no reply me or say is not interested in photograhers and really upset me bcos i love this work but not one guive opportuniti
October 14, 2011 at 8:10 pm, robertxc said:
Thank you for sharing, found it interesting and very true
Best
R
October 14, 2011 at 6:19 pm, Lvproimaging said:
I love your work and your post remains inspiring and informative. I know for myself I need to be more proactive regarding agencies and advertising departments. Your post takes away much of the guess work and just may be the perfect kick in the azz some of us need!
October 14, 2011 at 3:17 pm, Hudcom said:
Perfect “need to know”..thank you..
October 14, 2011 at 11:57 am, Eva Fydrych said:
Great article Shamim! I look forward to seeing your interview in Fashion Studio Magazine.
Eva
http://www.fashionstudiomagazine.com
October 14, 2011 at 8:39 am, Info said:
great advice not only for photographers!!!!
October 14, 2011 at 12:06 am, Jiacooks said:
Thanks for the info! I’ve always been intimidated to contact agencies but after reading this I will give it a shot! You’re work is great 😀
October 13, 2011 at 9:29 pm, Steve Hlavac said:
Every market is slightly different, but lots of good, solid advice here. Just wanted to add that I’ve never had a model or agency hesitate to sign a very limited release in South or Central Florida. But IMO every photographer should at least have something, even if it just permits portfolio and promotional use. Also, in the digital/internet age, online web proof galleries are an acceptable way to show models and agencies proofs of images shot.
October 13, 2011 at 8:28 pm, Vincebarker said:
Good article but could you expand on releases. If I’m planning a magazine submission I need a release included with the submission. Should I expect an agency to understand that ? If the magazine accepts my submission what is the normal procedure then. Does the magazine contact the agency or is that my job ? If the agency then asks for more money than the magazine wishes to pay, what then ? I have just wasted a lot of time, money and effort on an unusable shoot. This may be normal but I would like to know what the reality is today with so many online and printed magazines working on tight budgets.
I look forward to your advice.
Kind regards
Vincent Barker
October 13, 2011 at 10:49 pm, Shamim de Varax said:
Hey Vince- most magazines or editorials do not require releases. If however you need one contact the booker to explain and show them the release. this is where having a good relationship with the booker comes in. you need to be in charge of everything- the magazine wouldn’t contact the agency.
re: payment- same as above- negotiate with the booker beforehand. if you’re working with a new face the booker is more likely to work with you than against you- they understand the reality of small budgets too. also it’s a good idea to send the agency a pdf copy of the editorial if it comes out 😉
January 02, 2012 at 11:25 pm, Vincebarker said:
Hi Shamin,
Thanks for the useful advice.
Cheers
Vince
February 13, 2012 at 11:19 pm, N.Grigalunus said:
From my personal experience, the responsibilty falls almost eclusively on the shoulders of the photographer. If a magazine wants to publish a photo of a model you shot previously, the editor or art director natually concludes that your paperwork is all in order, and that they do not need to contact the model’s agancy, other them to give them a courtesy call to say their publiching a photo of him/her. As a general rule, if an agency wants a fee, they will contact the magazine directly, not you. If the publication refuses to pay, then it’s between the agency and the publication. Again, not you. If your image doesn’t get published, it’s not a waste of money. You should be marketing your photos multiple times throughout the year, to whomever you wish to target as a ‘client’. It’s all about competing for dollars, like any other industry.
October 13, 2011 at 5:42 pm, Liquidbutterflyphotography said:
I love reading your articles.