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Fashion photographer fallacies

I have been asked on many occasions about how one might embark onto the rocky road of the fashion business. I discussed various aspects of the fashion business in previous articles, however, I feel compelled to discuss some of the “fallacies” associated with breaking in to the “biz”.


© Benjamin Kanarek

Do you have to be a good photographer to break into the fashion industry?

The answer in an unequivocal NO! It hasn’t so much to do with talent as it does with attitude, panache, perspective and audacity. How you perceive and translate the social fabric (no pun intended) into imagery is a very important part of the process.

Do you need to be good technically to succeed?

Again, the answer is a very adamant NO! As any photographer can ally themselves with a good post production company or individual, getting your images to look polished or really unpolished is not difficult.  When I shot with film, and Photoshop was not as yet in the mainstream and in its infancy, I actually had to get it right from the get go.  If not, I wouldn’t get past first base.

Can I get the job once my portfolio is ready?

It depends. Unfortunately just having a great portfolio will not do the trick. Networking is one of the most important aspects of getting a gig. Knowing the appropriate person—in the right position to give you an opportunity—is essential.

Also, knowing who not to ask is as important as knowing who to ask. Going to the Art Director, for example, may demonstrate your naivety, if the informed photographer would have known full well that it would have been better to see the Editor for a specific magazine. That alone can ruin your chances of getting into the circle.

The inverse also applies in other cases. Going to see the Editor can really piss off the Art Director. They may think that you were trying to circumvent their authority. It is a very political business in that respect.

The overall point here is that no single rule of thumb applies to every organization. Do your research and find out who can really make the decision. It is often more than just one person. Do your homework; people will appreciate it.

To succeed, do you need to be in the major centers?

The answer is YES!

If you are not in New York, Paris, London, Milan, Los Angeles or Tokyo—or, in some cases, Madrid, Sao Paulo, Chicago, Munich, Miami, Toronto, Berlin or Moscow—it’s best to reconsider your goals. Be ready to pack your bags and prepare yourself for a fun ride.

Do I need to own “Pro Gear” to break into the business?

NO, NO and NO. Work with what you have, and when you get the job, the client will pay for the rental of anything you might need to complete the project. I don’t have a studio. I have some flash gear for my own personal work, and to experiment with. For every job I’ve done the client has provided me with all the necessary hardware. I just have to bring myself to the shoot. I can bring an assistant or use the assistants available at the studio. If I want to use my gear, and it is appropriate to get the job done, I will do so. It is you they are hiring, not the gear.

This article is republished from Benjamin Kanarek’s blog: Fashion Photographer Phalasies

Benjamin Kanarek

Benjamin Kanarek is an international fashion and beauty photographer. Ben is currently based in Paris, where he shoots for several of the International Editions of Harper's BAZAAR and VOGUE Magazines, and L’Officiel Paris etc. View more of his work at BenjaminKanarek.com and BenjaminKanarekBlog.com.

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10 Responses to “Fashion photographer fallacies”

  1. March 09, 2012 at 4:01 pm, Harold Rose said:

    I see so much of this that  is not on the mark.    I have done fashion for 50 years,  (full time professional)   mail order catalogs,   Sales catalogs that are used to sell from…Special Mfg. such as winter wear..   Sports wear..    Swim wear,  and yes even  The Fredricks type market.    

    YES  the photographer needs a high level of skill.  His years of experience will  make the work flow better.   When you go into the production of  the fall clothing line for a Childrens Mfg,   You better know what you are doing,   Time is money:

    The Ad agency and the Mfg head,  will have you out the door if it  looks like you have little experience.     Oh yes..  You will need the top of the line equipment..  In the 50’s  we shot mostly on 4×5 sheet film..  It was not untill the 80’s  that roll film took over,  and now  Digital..     “Go into a job and pull out   a cell phone and see how the door feels as it hits you in the behind. 

    The ad people, and the photographer ususally  get together at trade shows,  Get the thinking on line,   Product is shipped to the photo studio,  and that team starts putting it together.  

    I have clients that I have serviced for 15+ years,    and never met face to face anyone that works in the Manufacturing Plant..     (well not fashion,  but knife mfg)

    Reply

  2. March 09, 2012 at 2:48 pm, Holly Gordon said:

    re: do you need to be in a major center to succeed

    It depends on your definition of success. You can be financially successful in smaller cities, but, yes, to get work in the major mags, you will either have to jet-set or live in or near a major fashion center. Nice article!

    Reply

  3. March 09, 2012 at 2:40 am, Juliosifontes said:

    I love this blog !!! I am a new upcoming Fashion Photographer from the Caribbean and i was really inspired … 

    Reply

  4. March 08, 2012 at 8:48 am, Yeni said:

    Really beuautiful work!

    Reply

    • March 08, 2012 at 5:55 pm, yumyumphoto said:

       You are definatly right about alot of things….I think many photographers get confused thinking a good fashion picture has to be perfect…. Its more about a picture having that it factor that appeals to the editors and art directors. You got to know whats is in whats is out.  At this point I am trying to develope my personal style from my pictures to my personal self….

      Reply

  5. March 07, 2012 at 6:34 am, Hermans said:

    What can I say.
    This is one time I can completely agree with you.
    But, I can agree, as long as you are talking about 1’st and 2’nd tier mags or business. Much further down and it is another story.

    Reply

    • March 08, 2012 at 3:21 am, Ann said:

      Simply out of curiousity, how so? And which magazines are 3rd tier and below? I just don’t know. What I consider mindless pap and a bad fashion magazine might actually be ‘good.’

      Reply

  6. March 07, 2012 at 5:18 am, Fashionistaphotographer said:

    very optimistic, yet realistic, and professional perspective.
    Great read!

    petra

    Reply

  7. March 07, 2012 at 12:40 am, Joshua charles dawe said:

    Thanks so much for that, very helpfull.

    Reply

  8. March 07, 2012 at 12:11 am, Pixmaker53 said:

    Wonderful!! I’ve shot fashion for more decades than I care to recall, and shooting in Vancouver was good during the 70’s and 80’s, there are so many eager, talented young shooters around, one MUST do work other than fashion to pay the bills. (or move)

    Reply

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