LightBrushedImages wrote:
No, your concern is misplaced.  I am inviting climbers on MM to meet & discuss here - if I or any others end up connecting for a shoot, all the better!

This should be in Off-Topic.

Now if it were me discussing particular orgy preferences and I was looking for MM members to join in, THAT would be General Industry.

Wes Powell wrote:
Climbing for 11 years. Have bouldered V10 but now like V8ish till I do some more pullups. 5.13 sport. Good times.

wow 5.13 that's WORLD class. Very very very rare climber right there. top 100 I would say. jez 5.13 that is the rating for the Nose on el capitain.   I wish...

I use to climb a lot, every weekend and then trips. Also worked high ropes courses and did ropes/wall rescues.  I use to have a rescue we did starting at dusk so into the dark right away. It was such a cool tape shot in night-vision...everything green. Like a NatGeo documentary. My son was with us that weekend and as I was checking set ups on a Zdrag he whispered to me..... this is kinda fun...I whispered back...yeah I think so to but lets not smile till these people are gone. He was like 11 or so and of course I still am..... but my favorite times were doing rescues. Sure we tell every one "we hope we never have to do that again" but... well I miss the calls.

Climbing is cool, it takes us to a single focus, a true "now moment" for an extended time. It frees us from everything else. It lets us compete with our toughest challenger, ourselves. It is unlimited in the fear it causes and confidence it builds. I am so grateful that my son didn't like baseball or hockey, instead I found out he liked to climb and so my climbing began. Together and then with my daughter we have climbed all over the western US. The climb is great but the after climb dinner with friends and more, my 2 kids...... nothing beats it and the rsults it gave them shows in where they are today.
Thanks for the post....

Ok one funny thing.... you all know the words.."it's harder than it looks"   so I made a t shirt that says that in the shape os some mountains.... on the back it says "CLIMB ON"..... made them for the group.... then told them they were pajamas.... wink.

SillyEddy wrote:
Just started with my university society, but the idea is to go climbing most Wednesday afternoons, and then there are expeditions and other trips every few weekends. I'm just waiting to get some equipment of my own - The rental stuff kinda sucks.

I've only climbed like maybe 10 times in my entire life. Currently working on like a 5 or 5+. I can't remember the exact figure, I just remember struggling for some of it! That is like 5.8-5.9 or so. By Christmas I'd like to go lead climbing. It's all indoor stuff, but that's fine by me.

so the best thing I ever learned and it is from a known climber...it is all he does.
I was saying a tiny little bump on a flat face would not hold me. He talked me into trying it....said the worst thing is I fall and he has me. so I tried this imposable tiny bump, I mean like half a pea stuck on a sheer face.   It held..... now the lesson. He said, think of how many more hold you have now than you did before you tried that one. It moved me from 5.8 to 5.10 that day.  Good luck and enjoy it all.

Photographer Tim wrote:
so the best thing I ever learned and it is from a known climber...it is all he does.
I was saying a tiny little bump on a flat face would not hold me. He talked me into trying it....said the worst thing is I fall and he has me. so I tried this imposable tiny bump, I mean like half a pea stuck on a sheer face.   It held..... now the lesson. He said, think of how many more hold you have now than you did before you tried that one. It moved me from 5.8 to 5.10 that day.  Good luck and enjoy it all.

Yeah, I am learning to use the actual wall as a surface and not just the rocks on it. There are tiny impressions, and getting the right toe placement can mean the world of difference.

I just need to fitted into some suitable shoes. My toes hurt so much the last time that I had to stand on the sides of my feet, which is basically not rock climbing at all. A few sessions at the gym to improve core strength will also be useful. It's the start of a long journey of training though.

OkiPhoto wrote:
5.13 isn't really world class, and the Nose on El-Cap isn't 5.13. Actually, the Nose is most often done as 5.9 A3.

5.13 today is still in the realm of recreational climbers, and low end 5.14s are more or less the same.

I beg to differ. I would say many climbs are over rated as well, but moreover you are saying Chris Sharma is just barely outside a recreational climber?  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma

then the Nose, I am not sure why they have added the 5.9 since I was there, but it has been a while and it turns out it is both, I guess it has to do with how much aid you use,,,,just not sure but here you go...  http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/ … n-The-Nose

I would be interested if you can show me different info... but to me 5.14 is well beyond rec climbing.

Wes Powell wrote:
Yeah there are a lot of people doing 5.13.... even 5.14 these days. I try and go to the climbing gym a couple days a week but the age is starting to slow me down. Not my 20 year old self anymore. Plus, my attention has veered off into free diving lately.

ahhh the gym... yes I get it now. Not saying it is your situation but knowing gym owners from trainings around the country..... I know for a fact many rate climbs low to make people feel good about how well they are doing ....which in turn keeps em coming back ... just sayin. In out door climbing....which to me is much more realistic and I would argue the only real climbing....few people climb 5.14. It you can show me a list that is accepted by the greater climbing community with many names holding 5.14 climbs, I will change my position and admit I am wrong.   Here are the most recent "Top 10 Ascents for 2011" Most are 5.14 or less. So with all due respect....I am going with this ..... http://www.rockandice.com/component/con … ?showall=1

I beg to differ. I would say many climbs are over rated as well, but moreover you are saying Chris Sharma is just barely outside a recreational climber?  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma

Climb over rated, not for me to judge, but the climbs I've done seem fairly consistent from climbing area to climbing area. I've climbed most major climbing areas in America (Sport and trad) I learns in Yosemite and lived there for over a year to climb full-time.

Chris Sharma is on the high end of 5.14 and climbing 5.15s, so no he definitely falls outside of the recreational climbing zone. In my opinion, he's not even the best climber out there, I am much more impressed with Tommy Caldwell who is pushing the grades in Sport Climbing and Trad Climbing instead of just one. 

then the Nose, I am not sure why they have added the 5.9 since I was there, but it has been a while and it turns out it is both, I guess it has to do with how much aid you use,,,,just not sure but here you go...  http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/ … n-The-Nose

Thanks for the link to SuperTopo, I think you'll find I am a regular there. Mostly because I've been climbing for almost 30 years and have spend about 25 years in the industry one way or the other.

You can count how many people free climb the Nose on one hand, the norm for the route s still aid. Most party 5.9/5.10 A3. When did they add 5.9, before I started climbing in the 80s, can't say exactly. The route was originally 5.7 A3 and slowly rose and more and more people started free climbing harder and harder.

I would be interested if you can show me different info... but to me 5.14 is well beyond rec climbing.

Not sure where you live, but a trip trip to places like Red River Gorge, New River Gorge, the Obed, maybe Riffle and see for yourself. Visit The Cookie Cliff instead of Swan Slab in Yosemite, I think you might be surprised at what you find at the crags.

Low end 5.14 falls into the recreational end for sure, high end 5.14 and 5.15 maybe not. Shoot, I know several climbers in their 50s climbing 5.14, starting with Lynn Hill since you mention the Nose.

Yes, they are many many many recreational climbers who don't reach 5.13. Some people are more dedicated to their recreation than others, that for sure.

Before you say something about the gym, I don't consider the climbing gyms real climbing. It's a nice way to train and play, but it doesn't count in my book. Of course, these gyms are also the reason full-time professional can climb 5.13 and 5.14 during their weekend trips tot he crag. They can now push themselves climbing after work, before work, and in some cases during lunch breaks but heading to the nearest climbing gym.

ahhh the gym... yes I get it now. Not saying it is your situation but knowing gym owners from trainings around the country..... I know for a fact many rate climbs low to make people feel good about how well they are doing ....which in turn keeps em coming back ... just sayin. In out door climbing....which to me is much more realistic and I would argue the only real climbing....few people climb 5.14. It you can show me a list that is accepted by the greater climbing community with many names holding 5.14 climbs, I will change my position and admit I am wrong.   Here are the most recent "Top 10 Ascents for 2011" Most are 5.14 or less. So with all due respect....I am going with this ..... http://www.rockandice.com/component/con … ?showall=1

You should read more closely. "Record number of 5.14 d ascent by women. A high school girl climbs 5.14d, the alpine routes oush in the upper 5.12 range with packs on the elader back, snow, and crampons instead of climbing shoes. (Snow gloves too) M14 mixed in for fun. Bouldering and v16 go hand and hand. That was 2011.

How much climbing do you do in Minnesota?

I remember doing a bit of climbing on the North Shore, but as a climber, I would never live in Minnesota for lack of options.

Photographer Tim wrote:

ahhh the gym... yes I get it now. Not saying it is your situation but knowing gym owners from trainings around the country..... I know for a fact many rate climbs low to make people feel good about how well they are doing ....which in turn keeps em coming back ... just sayin. In out door climbing....which to me is much more realistic and I would argue the only real climbing....few people climb 5.14. It you can show me a list that is accepted by the greater climbing community with many names holding 5.14 climbs, I will change my position and admit I am wrong.   Here are the most recent "Top 10 Ascents for 2011" Most are 5.14 or less. So with all due respect....I am going with this ..... http://www.rockandice.com/component/con … ?showall=1

No, I climb outside about every week and some of the best bouldering in the world is near where I live. I just train in the gym for the outside stuff. My gym is actually really stiff to make everyone hard asses so the outside stuff feels easy.

Tony-S wrote:
I did emergency first aid on a climber that fell about 1200 feet down the Diamond (Long's Peak). Needless to say, not only did he die but his organs could not be used for transplantation.

I'm from IL but arrived in time at RMNP back in June 82' to help rescue a guy off Hallett's Peak where he had been stranded overnight with broken arm and leg.  I 've done Wilderness first responder work, body recovery, and basic EMT first aid to climbers for 40 years.

Jacob delaRosa wrote:
Oh that reminds me, does anyone remember a guy named Dan Osman? He was CRAZY good...well, maybe a little more crazy than good but you get the picture. Here's a video of him climbing a 400ft. rock face without support in 4:30

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wy3SuhEQHVg

I knew Dan. Never was much in favor of his and others solo speed attempts and long rope jumps.  Simple mistakes happen too often due to taking things for granted, and not doing required equipment checks EVERY time you do something with ropes and rocks.

Sarah M T wrote:
What an amazing thread!!  I'm so excited to read about everyone's climbing love and experience, and I can't wait to check out your pictures!!  I've been climbing for a little over 6 years, and teach kids classes, coach kids climbing teams, and teach adult belay technique and sport lead classes.  I don't do a lot of bouldering, but I can work through mid-5.10 top rope routes, sport lead 5.8/5.9, love indoor and outdoor climbing!!  First outdoor climb was Devil's Tower...6 pitches will force any fear out of you, haha!!  I love a lot of Minnesota locations...North Shore of Lake Superior is my favorite (set up top ropes, rappel down the cliff over the lake to climb back up...gorgeous), Taylor's Falls (similar set up as North Shore) an Barn Bluff in Red Wing (bolted sport lead).  I'd love to climb/shoot with any of you any time...and feel free to contact me if you're ever in MN!!  Safe climbing everyone!!

Climber for over 45 years.  Did Devils Tower several times. Quite a first climb to do that one! I began with normal hikes, backpack, mountaineering ascents, winter snows, high altitude camps and summits. Then on to doing trad rock, then ice climbs but not into solo climbs or ankle busting high ball bouldering with the 'pad people' of today.   I'm a midwest Devils Lake climber and have at least one nude pic posted here at MM in my profile.  Have written many articles  for AANR magazine, including my nude rock climbing pics and efforts a few years ago at age 68.

Photographer Tim wrote:

I beg to differ. I would say many climbs are over rated as well, but moreover you are saying Chris Sharma is just barely outside a recreational climber?  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma

then the Nose, I am not sure why they have added the 5.9 since I was there, but it has been a while and it turns out it is both, I guess it has to do with how much aid you use,,,,just not sure but here you go...  http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/ … n-The-Nose

I would be interested if you can show me different info... but to me 5.14 is well beyond rec climbing.

Climbing now for over 45 years.  The numbers dont' matter much to me.   Gym 5.12 probably means you'd struggle on real rock 5.10 sport, and fail miserably on your first 5.8 trad climb.    I've been to many comps to watch or photograph the big names above and others too.  ( like being at Dawn Wall first ascent for 6 days of the effort).   It's amazing to see 14 yr. old's on-sight a 5.14, but that's not common.   I'd say that anyone who can rack up a few 5.13 multi pitch climbs in a day is pretty much 'world class'.   5.14 is for sure the basis of most top class climbers, and the top 100 maybe, can be in the 5.15 realm.  I don't strive to go for that. I'm just happy to be on the rock. As a geologist, scientist kind of person, I'm often just hanging out mid route to see unique rock formations I'm climbing past.     Photograph of rock, and the climbers is of much more interest to me than making some first ascent.     Knocked down for a few years with repeated internal surgeries, so my gut and core are shot now, and haven't done rock in several years. But still could toprope 90 ft' of water ice 5 at age 71 last winter.  Hope to heal up soon and be back at the RRG for fests and fun.

Chroma Flux wrote:

No, I climb outside about every week and some of the best bouldering in the world is near where I live. I just train in the gym for the outside stuff. My gym is actually really stiff to make everyone hard asses so the outside stuff feels easy.

Tim:   I never took gyms seriously for numbers, etc.  Just a place to train, run laps, practice moves and ignore their holds taped in 9 different colors  and listing to dips yell 'Your are off route !' at me.   I began on my own in early 70's, but ran out of the few local climbing partners by late 80's.  The gym thing was just starting in the US, so I chose to build my own 'woodie' of basic squared off walls and roofs in plywood.  78 ft wide by 26 ft high. I'd guess that in 1990 it was the biggest indoor private wall in this country.  Plus when I started, there were maybe 5 or 6 companies making holds, all in dull colors.  Think Boulder Holds were my first sets of bright colors to use for route setting.
       Covid closures sure added LOTS more indoor home walls for personal use in the last 3 years, as even gyms often had to close up or at least climbers stopped coming for most of a year.  .